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Paul Robinson: The New Chapter FA (V15)

Saturday, March 23rd, 2013

paul-robinson-the-new-chapter-v15-01
 
paul-robinson-the-new-chapter-v15-02I returned to Arkansas in early 2013 and with friends Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb headed straight up the big hill again to try this incredible project. The line had faint marks of chalk, probably from when I last tried it 4 years prior. We quickly cleaned up the line and began working on it from a stand start in the middle of the roof. We all managed to climb the boulder and named/graded it “Child’s Play,” V13. After sending the line we noticed a line of holds that led deeper into the roof with a perfect starting hold about 10 feet back from where we began “Child’s Play.” The motivation was high but darkness set in and we left.
 
Other lines got hold of our attention that trip and we never made it back to the roof. After a desert Southwest trip, I was heading back to the East Coast and knew I had to go back to Arkansas to try this incredible project that still waited to be sent from its true start. I began working the moves on the bottom and found them to be nearly as hard as the moves of the stand start. I managed to climb into the stand start from the bottom a few times that trip but could not manage to climb the entire line.
 
Again, I had to leave and again, I could not get the line out of my mind. I knew I had to return and soon. I again made the long drive to Arkansas with a friend. After a few days of extreme heat and then some rain, the window of perfect conditions opened. I knew this was going to be my chance to send. My first day back on the line was very promising. I managed to climb to a new high point. At this point, I knew I could climb the line! I returned the next day and after figuring out a small change in my sequence managed to make the first ascent of one of the coolest roofs I have ever climbed! I named the line, “The New Chapter,” and have given it the grade of V15. This is definitely one of the hardest boulders that I have ever climbed and it feels good to lay this one to rest with such a long history I have had with the line itself. 2013 has now begun in my eyes. I can now stop thinking about this line and begin a new chapter in my life. I am really psyched for the projects on the horizon and hope this is the best year of my life!
 
~ Paul Robinson, prAna Ambassador
 
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