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Posts Tagged ‘Toni Lamprecht’

Chris Sharma Wins The Masters Series I Psicobloc! (video)

October 25th, 2010

With an estimated five-thousand people in attendance, Chris Sharma led a talented group of climbers in a one of a kind Deep Water Soloing competition sponsored by BBK (Banco Bilbao Kutxa). The beautiful city of Bilbao, in northern Spain, was the setting for this spectators delight. The Nervión and Ibaizabal rivers meet to form the Bilbao Estuary where a 50′ high wall, built by Top 30, awaited the competitors.

With more than 4000 spectators lining the river, it entertained more people that any climbing competition in history. Chris Sharma wowed the crowd as usual, sticking the imposing double-dyno at the beginning of the roof and topping out twice. The nearest competitor stuck the double dyno and fell at the lip. Only three of the approximate 15 competitors made it past the dyno. ~Boone Speed

We immediately reached out to  Chris who could barely contain his excitement at the DWS format…

It was such an awesome event , unbelievable actually.  For years I’ve been dreaming about doing a competition like this, so for me and my good friend Miguel Riera (the godfather of Mallorcan Deep water soloing) it was a dream come true.  The first time I went deep water soloing in Mallorca 7 years ago, I knew it was something special.  This style of climbing high over the water, with no rope, changed my perception of what was possible in climbing.  It is without doubt for me the purest form of climbing, as well being very spectacular.

To do a deep water soloing competition was a no brainer from the start.  The high adrenaline and big falls make it a super spectacular spectator sport, more so than any other climbing competition format.

It was just a matter of time for all the stars to align and make an event like this happen.  It was a great honor to participate in the event held last weekend over the river in downtown Bilbao in the Basque country of northeastern Spain.  It couldn’t have been a better turnout.  The wall was 50 ft tall and the route was a dynamic 5.14a that thrilled the thousands of spectators with crazy falls and tons of sports action.  It was great proof that climbing Can be an amazing spectator sport.

Looking back on the years when climbing was in the X Games but just couldn’t translate to the mainstream audience because if its slow subtle nature, this new form of competition will surely blow the minds of any non climber and I believe will be a key element in climbing becoming a more mainstream sport.

~Chris Sharma

In the end, it was Sharma followed by Bruno Macias 2nd with Ignasi Tarrazona and Nacho Sánchez tied for 3rd.

“It was like a rock concert” ~Daila Ojeda

Congratulations to Chris and all all the other competitors including Toni Lamprecht as we look forward to seeing innovative climbing events like this help bring climbing to the masses! Enjoy the videos…

Here are more pictures from the comp via…

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Entre Cielo Y Mar (video)

August 9th, 2010

What do 3 Germans do when they travel to Mallora for holiday… Lots of climbing and celebrating with the locals. Courtesy of Toni Lamprecht



Vimeo.com/prAna

July 22nd, 2010

Toni Lamprecht & Friends Playing In Portugal (video)

April 19th, 2010

Toni just checked in with us about his latest trip to Sintra, Portugal…

Our trip to Portugal was amazing: friendly people, nice weather, nice landscape, nice rock, nice projects and a foot that can stand hard bouldering again! After our trip to Sagrez in the south of Portugal around Christmas I got an invitation by local climber Fred da Silva to Lisboa. After he sent me some pictures I was persuaded! The rock looked like a mixture between Joshua Tree and Black Mountains. And we were not dissapointed! The first day we got introduced into the Lisboa boulder-scene, which welcomed us with open arms and minds. They all got not tired while showing us all their juveniles. Especially Fred turned out to be the perfect guide, because he totally knew, what was good for us (city, beach, climbs).

The first week we checked out a lot of places, climbed with locals and with a big group of spanish strongmen and I got back into serious bouldering after my injury and a two month rest. Soon motivated by the scene and the rock I did even a few new lines (Zagalot, Nailbiter) in the upper “7th”-range! While “Zagalot” (an old project) turned out to be a power-full-body-extension-compression boulder (check out the video), the “Nailbiter” occured to be a crazy jump that cost me a lot of skin…hahaha!

To resume the trip is easy: We’re having a very good time, being part of a still virgin bouldering community (that will grow fast), enjoying nice restdays on the beach and in the streets of Lisboa. And when we had to leave, it felt the best! But I found a good, hard line on the last day, so I’m shure that it won’t be the last time, that I’ll visit “Sintra” at it beautifull rocks.

Toni

All pictures by Margit Memminger

For more on Toni check out his blog, Antonator

Toni Lamprecht: Freedom

March 13th, 2010

8a Climber of the Decade: Chris Sharma

December 2nd, 2009

As we reflect on another great year (& decade) for prAna, we are proud that 10 of the to 25 “Playas” are or have been part of the prAna family (Sharma, Graham, Josune, Dani, Fred, Tommy, Beth, Martina, Jerome & Iker).

8a.nu celebrates its 10-year anniversary in the next few weeks! Here is their provisional 8a Climber of the decade list.

Chris_Sharma_lores

1. Chris Sharma USA First Ascent Pioneer

2. David Graham USA Combined 8a ranking leader for like 7 years

3. Patxi Usobiaga ESP Lead male comp climber of the decade, 8a route ranking leader

4. Yuji Hirayama JPN Competition, Sport, Boulder and Big wall

5. Josune Bereziartu ESP 9a’s, comps and Bigwall

6. Dani Andrada ESP FA Legend around Lleida, Comps

7. Kilian Fischhuber AUT Best Male Comp Boulderer, routes

8. Fred Nicole SWI Boulder Pioneer

9. Tomas Mrazek CZE Continuous in both comp and rock

10. Angela Eiter AUT

11. Steve McClure GBR,

12. Tommy Caldwell USA

13. Muriel Sarkany BEL,

14. Beth Rodden USA

15. Sandrine Levet FRA

16. Ramon Puigblanque ESP,

17. Martina Cufar SLO

18. Dai Koyamada JPN

19. Toni Lamprecht

20. Natalija Gros

21. Alexandre Chabot

22. Christian Bindhammer ITA,

23. Jerome Meyer FRA,

24. John Gaskins GBR

25. Iker Pou ESP

26. Fred Rouhling SWI

Want to join the discussion and voice your opinion? Click Here

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