Paul Robinson tore it up in Fall 2010 on the granite boulders of Switzerland, ticking off multiple problems in the 8B and above range, including a couple 8Cs (one, a first ascent). (BD) sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez up to Switzerland to capture some of Robinson’s bouldering sendage, as well as develop a video profile of Robinson that would showcase his personality and drive. The weather crapped out during Gimenez’s visit, but the ever-stoked Robinson still climbed a bunch of rad 8B to 8B+ problems for the camera, as well as sat down and explained his motivations and aspirations.
Posts Tagged ‘Paul Robinson’
It was another beautiful year here at prAna and we are both pleased and surprised at the blog posts that YOU viewed more than any others! Enjoy (re) reading these as we prepare to usher in 2011. ~Namaste
These 39 inspiring and simple daily tips on how each of us can make our lives and that of those around us better was far and away our most read post… for good reason. We have all grown a little from the invigorating thoughts and our thanks go out to Linda’s Yoga Journey.
#2. Dean Potter – On the line solo, at Taft Point
An amazing photograph, story and personal philosophy from one of the most well known outdoor athletes. The unaltered images have been posted across the web and continue to amaze people. For more on Dean click HERE.
#3. 50 Excellent Yoga Moves To Cure Any Kind Of Pain Or Problem
Yoga is widely known for being a gentle, but effective workout tool. Yoga can also help ease everyday aches and pains to keep you from visiting the doctor numerous times a year. Like they say, an apple a day keeps the doctor away.
#4. From Dean Potter, About Freesolo
We noticed the post on Dean’s freesolo at Taft Point (#2 above) had a lot of readers concerned and a few skeptical. We asked Dean to share with us a little about his training on the line, and dug up a video clip from a feature on Dean in the New York Times. This is what Dean had to say in his own words… For more on Dean click HERE.
#5. 50 Best Yoga Books for Your Mind, Body, & Spirit
Obviously, a multitude of yoga books with plenty of valuable things to say exist beyond this list. But the following 50 have stood out based on their reviews and popularity, providing readers of all interests and experience levels with all the information they need on the different methods and how they can shape a person’s mental, physical and spiritual facets for the better. Most mentioned book that was omitted from the list by readers is the Bhagavad-Gita.
#6. PRob Sends! One Of The Hardest Boulder Problems On American Soil
Paul Robinson had his eye on a line called ‘Rasta Man Sit Start’ which is on the Granpa Peabody Boulder in Bishop, California. It’s a very steep and fingery climb that had never seen an ascent. Paul spent a week in Bishop working on the ultra progressive problem and felt very strong. Chris Sharma came out to see what it was all about – after talking with Paul and trying a few moves, he confirmed that it could be one of the hardest boulder problems in the U.S. For more on Paul click HERE.
The future of climbing lay on the finger tips of today’s youth. The next Chris Sharma and Alex Johnson’s are out there among us and already cranking double digit boulder problems. I spent a day out shooting photos with members of TEAM ABC this month in the bouldering mecca of Hueco Tanks State Park in El Paso, Texas.
How far would you go to live closer to the earth? Would you go all the way to Idaho? And would you actually goinside the earth? That’s what Dugout Dick decided to do some 60 years ago—until his passing this year. Dugout Dick is quite possibly the most simple, self-sufficient homeowner in the United States. Also known as Dick Zimmerman, Dick built his home—a cave—inside of a rocky hillside overlooking the Salmon River near Elk Bend, Idaho.
#9. Burning Man 2010
Burning Man is the best adult playground ever devised, a vast testing ground for one’s resourcefulness, imagination, and sense of adventure, managing to amuse 50,000 or so tech-addled, sleep-deprived, uncomfortable Moderns for up to a week or longer, while keeping them active, eating less, constantly testing their limits, morals, and comfort zones, and providing them with a social arrangement of managed freedom within limits acceptable to the paying participant. It’s even more fun than college.
#10. Stone Summit Is The Largest Climbing Gym In The U.S.A.
Whether you are a beginner or a world-class athlete, they have a climb for you. Stone Summit has walls extending 25 feet to 60 feet high to challenge both your strength and mind, a bouldering room that will not bore even the most fanatical gym rats, a yoga studio to strengthen your body and release your mind of the sometimes stressful world, and spin classes that will get you fit for the next hard climb or for bathing-suit weather. In addition to climbing, yoga, and spin, Stone Summit also has a fitness center so whether you want a good cardio exercise or to be the next Arnold, they have all the top-of-the-line equipment to get you there.
Breath, life, vitality of the spirit.
These qualities infuse not only our name, but also our aspirations, the things we make and how we make them.
Welcome to mindfully designed, built to last products – born from the experience.
I sent “From Dirt Grows The Flower” V15 yesterday!!! From dirt grows the flower is an amazing boulder problem in Chironico, Switzerland. The line starts with a very hard crimpy boulder problem that involves a very hard undercling move. Once you access the lip it is a decision as to go straight or left. The straight version is an intense 8A+ mantle and the left exit, which I chose, is a technical and slopey 8A+ lip traverse. I fell on the top lip traverse many times before completing the boulder problem yesterday! Now that I have completed this boulder, my main focus is to complete the story of two worlds in Cresciano before heading to Font’ in a little over a week.
Look for video of this ascent and Robinson’s FA of Ill Trill in Haroun Souirji’s upcoming film ‘Better Than Chocolate,’ due to release March 2011. ~27Crags
For more info visit 27Crags & UKClimbing
Paul recently sent “Big Paw” V15 in Chironico, Switzerland. This was the fourth ascent of the line (1st – Dave Graham, 2nd – Dai Koyomada 3rd – Adam Ondra). Congratulations to PRob on his latest!
Big Paw is a large prow in Chironico. The climb begins low and climbs the prow to its point at approximately 15 feet off the ground. Big Paw is one of the most exciting and amazing climbs I have ever climbed on. The beginning is very hard and powerful and the top is technical and crimpy. I climbed the full line in 3 days and had to brush snow off of the top out last night to make it possible to climb on today. It was so cold today that the remaining snow on the top out did not melt which made it possible for me to make the ascent. I have 20 days left in Switzerland and way too many boulders I want to climb!
~Paul
UPDATE:
Yesterday, I managed to make the fourth ascent of Dave Graham’s “Big Paw” in Chironico. This line has been one that I have been really psyched to climb on ever since first seeing it a little over 2 years ago. I climbed the stand start, “Boogalaga” about a month ago and was psyched to come back and try the sit. With so many other boulders in CH to try it took me until the other day to get back to work the moves out on the sit. I quickly figured out a nice sequence that worked for me and came very close to sending that day.
Snow was in the forecast for the next day but fortunately the weather said it would never be above freezing. That night I wandered out to the boulder at around 10 pm with a hand-made broom in hand along with my head lamp and lantern. I managed to clean a bit of an exit area in which to top out if I managed to send the following day.
The following day was perfect. It was freezing cold and never went above freezing so the remaining snow on the top out didn’t drip. I managed to send that afternoon and endured one of the scariest and iciest top outs of my life. I crawled to the peak of the boulder grasping chunks of snow and ice. But none of it mattered, I was so psyched to have sent such a brilliant line with my good friend mickey and dave jones there. The day was perfect and I could not have asked for more perfect conditions.
I am exhausted today and will be resting. I still have a few climbs left that I am psyched for! I hope to finish off the list before my departure to Font on Dec. 20! C’monnnnnnnnn weather!
A massive video with big paw, dreamtime, and la proue comng soon!
~Paul
My first time climbing in the gym was back in 1998 when I attended a birthday party of one of my neighborhood friends. I loved it and knew I wanted to continue climbing from that moment on. I feel that the training inside the gym has helped greatly with my outdoor success. Having a place to climb on a regular basis where you can give it your all and not worry about being injured is an amazing concept. Climbing in a gym has given me the strength to send the boulders that I have done outside in as quick of a fashion as possible. In the gym I usually warm up for about 15 minutes and then climb on hard boulders for around 3 hours. I like to try and set climbs with my friends of all different styles. This I feel helps me prepare for any type of boulders I will encounter out on the rocks. Some of my favorite climbing gyms include, CATS in Boulder, CO and Earth Treks in Timonium, MD.
~Paul Robinson
We caught up with Paul while country hopping in Europe and asked him some questions. The answers might surprise you!
1. prAna gear you can’t live without?
Sutra pant, Nature T, that really cool blue and light blue striped hoodie. I can’t remember the name but it’s awesome! (it’s the Milkweed Hoody PRob)
2. What you would do (activity/career) if you didn’t climb/BASE
Surf.
3. Earliest memory?
Playing in the small stream by my house with my neighborhood friends.
4. Childhood obsession?
Since age 11, climbing. Before that I think I was too young to be obsessed with any one thing.
5. Herbivore or Carnivore?
Carnivore.
6. Favorite place in the world? Read the rest of this entry »
If you are near the Italy/Austria border this week (November 3-7), be sure to catch the IMS Boulder Festival and climbing comp! We are looking forward to prAna athletes Paul Robinson and Alex Puccio leading a world class lineup including Nalle Hukkataival, Alex Johnson, Kilian Fischhuber, Christian Core, Johanna Ernst and more! Here is more on the festivities…
The IMS Boulder Festival by Apenverein Südtirol offers a rich program for beginners and professionals. Bressanone/Brixen will be a real paradise for boulderers from the 3rd to 7th of November 2010! The very best route setters from Innsbruck (A) and South Tyrol will bring the best out of the world-cup suitable bouldering wall and leave nothing to be desired. With an emphasis on fun and friendship, climbers and boulderers from South Tyrol and all over the world will get the chance meet, compete and celebrate together at the Boulder Festival by Alpenverein Südtirol. Highlights: The Boulder Festival offers a rich program for young and old. Meet your favorite Boulderstar at the IMS Cup 10 … be amazed by the pro’s stunts at the Slackline Worldcup Final… win the Boulderjam and participate at the IMS Cup 10… Spend a great day climbing with your friends at the Free Bouldering on Thursday… and lots more of fun. At the Party there’s good live music and a great ambience waiting for you.
For more info visit imsboulderfestival.com
Update: Here are the comp results…
1. Alex Puccio – Nalle Hukkataival
2. Anna Stöhr – Guillome Glarion-Mondet
3. Alizee Dufraisse – Kilian Fischhuber
4. Alex Johnson – Paul Robinson
Paul Robinson continues on his global bouldering tour, leaving Rocklands, South Africa for the granite blocks of Switzerland. Here is a video he edited together of some burly climbing at both areas, including his ascent of Black Eagle (V14) in Rocklands. ~BD
Cross Posted from 27Crags
A few weeks ago a strong climber and friend, Mickey, from the UK showed Paul Robinson a hard project in Magic Wood, CH. At the time Paul had just finished Neverending Story and was looking for something else to work on. He began trying the project with Mickey while also trying Practice of the Wild. Due to rain and humidity the project had to be put aside. Finally as the season in Magic Wood is nearing its end, the temps have gone down and the air has dried, making the conditions perfect for sending.
After 6 days of trying to hammer out the beta and execute the moves on this 13 move climb, Paul was finally able to complete the project yesterday. He is naming it Ill Trill and giving it the grade 8C. After comparing this line to the other 8B+’s in the forest and the only other 8C, he believes this is an appropriate grade, although he says it is soft for an 8C but much harder than any of the 8B+’s.
by Alli Rainey
About 70 people signed up for Rocktoberfest clinics this year, taught by pros including myself, Kevin Wilkinson, Emily Harrington, Sam Elias, Britney Griffith, Kris Hampton, and more. Clif Bar donated an amazing amount of Clif products, allowing every participant to head off to their climbing day with a handful of Clif goodies to fuel their efforts.
Kevin and I taught Intermediate Sport Climbing and Redpointing at The Playground, a nice little shaded crag in Soreheel Hollow. Our awesome AMGA guide was local climber and route developer, Blake Bowling. We enjoyed working with an enthusiastic and positive group of clinic attendees, who were psyched to learn more about climbing safety while also honing their climbing technique and training approach.
At the end of the day, every clinic participant received a brand-new prAna chalkbag stuffed full of goodies, with bootie ranging from a new pair of Native Eyewear sunglasses to prAna tote bags to Bonnie’s Balms Healing Salve and Pain Eraser, plus Rocky Mountain Suncreen products, and a prAna poster of Chris Sharma or Paul Robinson.
Thanks to prAna and Petzl for supporting both my own and Kevin’s attendance at this awesome annual event, which raises money for a good cause—the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition, responsible for keeping access running smoothly here at one of America’s top sport climbing destinations. Great people and fantastic organization made for another successful Rocktoberfest. Hope to see you there next year!
UPDATE: Here is a nice note from one of the climbing clinic participants…
Alli,
Just wanted to say thanks to you and Kevin for putting on a great clinic (and for getting your sponsors to throw in some sweet stuff as well). You guys are awesome! Just from the few pointers you had both given me, I felt like I was conserving a lot more energy in my climbs the next day. I’ll definitely be working on those finger strengthening exercises you had mentioned.
Keep in touch, and hopefully we’ll meet again at the Red, or …. somewhere!
Cheers, Neel
