Posts Tagged ‘Climbing’
Climbing and parenting: a balance between hanging on and letting go. Climbing seems simple enough: grip too hard and you’ll pump out early. If you don’t put enough effort into it, you’ll never make it to the end. I have spent over a decade fine-tuning that balance between holding on and letting go. Now with the birth of our first child Annie, I find the same lessons in parenthood: Suddenly I am two people, dependent on each other, but both with a lifetime of dreams and aspirations ahead of us. I have to hold on, but not too tight. Seems simple enough.
~Kate Reese McGinnis, prAna Ambassador
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Tony Yaniro was a serious game changer for the world of rock climbing. While others were satisfied with climbing five twelve he felt the need to go further. Establishing Grand Illusion as the first five thirteen, he planted a stepping stone for the masses.
Tony is well known for hi establishing all over California, but he also left his mark many other places, such as my home state Idaho. Tony moved to Ketchum Idaho in the late eighties. He linked up with Dave Bingham, and together they attacked the development of Idaho sport climbing.
Most of there time was spent at the mega spots such as City of Rocks, Massacre rocks, and many others! Establishing many five twelve’s and five thirteen’s. Turning these areas into great destinations for hard sport climbing! He also developed the surrounding area of my home town Sun Valley. There isn’t a ton around here, but what there is happens to be stellar. Much of this do to the psyche of Tony Yaniro.
Many people know about Tony chipping and “comfortising” holds. This used to really bug me, though it was known and ok for the times. I have come to terms that what was done back in the day was part of a learning process. That and the fact that what has been chipped isn’t going any where any time soon.
There is a local crag to Sun Valley called “Trail Creek”. The crags are short, but a lot of fun for being only about eight miles out of Sun Valley. Here Tony put up a few lines, two of which were shipped. I tackled the beautiful un chipped route called “Sacillian” 12C first, a stellar line on an exposed arête. Right next door is a 13a dubbed “Vigilante.” Great route though it yields a couple man made holds. To be honest you can barely even tell, apparently Tony was an artist when it came to chipping/comfortising.
Tony may have literally left his mark on some rock, but in the process he opened up a whole new world for sport climbing. He trained for routes, rehearsed them, whatever it took. He left his mark on the rock and in the history books.
~Beau Stuart, prAna Ambassador
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The Man Who Can Fly
National Geographic: Legendary rock climber and base jumper Dean Potter mounts an expedition to free climb the massive peaks of Canada’s Mt. Butte. Catch it Sunday February 12th at 8:00pm!
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With a total of 8 days over a 2 year period, Paul Robinson was finally able to send one of his hardest lines to date, Meadowlark Lemon in Gateway Canyon, Nevada (a subsector of Red Rocks).
This is Paul’s hardest FA to date, besides Lucid Dreaming. The send was caught on film by Chuck Fryberger’s film crew and will be featured in their upcoming moving “The Network.”
Of today’s (11/1/2012) ascent, Paul comments, “I considered it one of the best lines I have ever climbed on in the entire world. The boulder is super physical, yet really technical. The crux revolves around some really crazy heel hooks on the left arete.”
2 years ago, Paul put up Meadowlark Lemon stand and graded it 8B/V13. He considers the moves between the sit and the stand start to be an additional 8B, making the entire line two 8B’s linked together without a rest.
When asked about the name of the boulder problem, Paul said, “Meadowlark Lemon was an American basketball player that played for the Harlem Globetrotters. He was considered to be one of the best players ever and has a sweet name. The last move of my climb is similar to a slam dunk in basketball.”
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