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Posts Tagged ‘catalunya’

A Meal At Lo Raco Del Pont, Catalunya

March 25th, 2012

After our terrible meal earlier in the trip, one of our travel companions on this climbing trip to Spain, Alisa talked a restaurant that’s usually closed on Mondays into opening up for a lunch serving especially for our group… seven hungry climbers in search of delectable Catalan cuisine. The restaurant, Lo Raco Del Pont, is in the next town over from our digs near Tremp, La Pobla del Segur.

We arrived at around 1 p.m., walking through the unassuming entryway that led us to our table, set up outside. The chef came out and translated the menu for us, describing each item to the best of his ability in English (which was much better than any of our Spanish), along with mimes (such as for duck, “quack, quack” along with an arm flutter) and saying “Bambi” for the venison dish. And that was the beginning of one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten in my life. We kicked it off with a couple of pitchers of sangria, and it was all uphill from there. The first plates were amazing, both beautiful to look at and divine to dig into:

By the time the second plates had arrived, all thoughts of taking individual photographs had flown away as silence prevailed. I’d thoroughly enjoyed my first plate (the carpaccio with truffle oil and parmesan shavings); Kevin and I each split our second plates, enjoying a duck leg served with a berry-infused sauce and chunks of venison stewed in a thick, rich sauce with a hint of cinnamon. Both were amazing, as was the bite of “pig cheeks” that Lawrence offered me, which tasted like the most divinely tender pot roast ever.

Desserts proved every bit as delectable as the main courses; again Kevin and I split ours – a molten chocolate cake and homemade truffles. The incredibly rich, dark chocolate sauce drizzled over both dishes made us lick our plates clean. Dessert was followed by espressos, and finally, some sort of cinnamon schnapps provided by the restaurant to “help with digestion.” (Mm-hmm, not so sure about that one).

Overall, it was an absolutely amazing culinary experience, one of the finest restaurant meals I’ve had in years. We were so impressed by the service (opening especially for us!) and the obvious delight the chef took in explaining and preparing each dish for us; it was well worth the price (36 euros per person, with a tip included, seemed like a steal, in the end, honestly).

So…the next time you’re in Catalunya, be sure to stop in for a meal at Lo Raco Del Pont. You will not be disappointed, I promise!

~Alli Rainey, prAna Ambassador

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Spring Break in Spain: Sport Climbing At Its Finest

July 4th, 2011

Climbing is many things to me. Passion. Obsession. Desire. Drive. Beauty. Climbing is a reason to be outside and experience the world. But more than that, climbing is travel and people.

Being a climber has taken me places I’d never dreamed of going and allowed me to meet people I’d never have met. What other sport takes you across the ocean to an obscure location, usually in the middle of the woods, where you’ll meet amazing like-minded people from all walks of life.

In what other sport do you get to “play” side-by-side with your heroes? Good luck ever playing basketball with Michael Jordan, or throwing a football around with one of the Manning brothers. But climbing a route at the same crag as Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, or Lynn Hill, that can happen to anyone, you just have to be in the right place at the right time.

Who knows, you might even end up having a beer with your idol at the end of the day.

The right place this spring was Catalunya, Spain. Here you will find the some of the best climbers in the world climbing the hardest sport climbs in the world, everyday. It’s truly amazing and inspiring to watch and be a part of.

For two weeks this spring Andrew Bisharat, senior editor at Rock and Ice and also my boyfriend, Keith Ladzinski, photographer extraordinaire, Elly Stewart, Keith’s intern, and I had the opportunity to live and climb with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda in their home region of Catalunya, Spain.

Spain is basically a country made of limestone and tufas. World class climbing sits just off the road and is abundant to say the least.

Ours days quickly took on the comfortable routine of Chris and Daila, which I now refer to as “Spain style”. Wake up around 10:00am, or 11:00am, or noon, whenever you’re body decides it’s had enough.

Drink coffee, read a book, relax, deal with things around the house, and talk about the days plans. When the time feels right and the sun is sure to be off the wall, motivate and head to the crag. Once at the crag the amount of climbing tended to be minimal, but the amount of effort put into each climb was huge. A muerte, to the death, as the Spanish say. Short spurts of everything you had with chill, tranquilo, moments in between.

I learned a lot about the type of life I’d like to lead from watching Chris and Daila. Of course they are great climbers, but more than that, they are great people. Caring, kind, welcoming, thoughtful, and tranquilo. . . except when climbing, then it’s a muerte.

~Jen Vennon, prAna Ambassador

Andrew Bisharat and Keith Ladzinski tell the story of our trip to Spain in the new Rock and Ice, issue 196. It should be on the newsstands next week. Look for the amazing cover of Daila Ojeda on Mind Control, 5.14c.

 

Breath, life, vitality of the spirit.

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Chuck Fryberger: The Scene (video)

May 10th, 2011

We can’t wait to see prAna ambassadors Chris Sharma, Steph Davis, Alex Puccio and a host of other great climbers in Chuck’s latest film!

THE SCENE

From the director of PURE and CORE, get ready to infiltrate four of the biggest scenes in the world of climbing.

Moab, Utah: a mellow desert town surrounded by massive sandstone towers, where climbers test the limits of danger while still maintaining a strict traditional ethic. Boulder, Colorado: the undisputed social hub of US climbing, with sponsored athletes of every discipline living in a city packed-full of talent, competition, and progressive ideas. Innsbruck, Austria: with possibly the highest concentration of talent in the world, the competition climbers here fight not only for the tops of podiums, but also corporate sponsorships and mainstream success. Catalunya, Spain: with near-limitless potential, Northern Spain has claimed the title of sport climbing capital of the world, and is now home to climbing’s largest population of elite sport climbers.

Filmed in stunning 4K Ultra High Definition, get ready for a fast-paced ride through the centers of the climbing universe.

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Chris Sharma Talks About Sending First Round First Minute 5.15b (videos)

April 20th, 2011

It was so good to finally send First Round First Minute yesterday.. After almost 3 years effort and falling at the last move over 50 times, I thought I might never do this route. I never gave up, but after so much time on this climb with no success I was forced to let go and move on . I had done 99% of the route so many times and was just really over it. Last fall I dedicated a handful of days on the line but every try ended at the end of the rope. I actually made it past the crux once, only to fall above. I was getting stuck in a rut that I didn’t know how to get out of. Ive always been able to keep the faith and see my projects through to the end but it just wasn’t happening with First Round. After so many times on the same route, at the same area, and falling in the same place, it started to become really boring and frustrating. It became a big mental block. I would climb perfectly up to the last move and then blow it for one reason or another. It was really necessary to get some space, climb on other lines and connect again with just the pure joy of climbing without always looking at it in such goal oriented way. The desire to do the route can be the same thing that prevents us form succeeding. To do our best we have to let go of all expectations and just be totally in the moment. So this year Ive been trying lots of different projects that I have around the Catalunya region of Spain and just trying to reconnect with the pure fun of climbing. Whatever the results make sure that I’m enjoying it and in it for the right reasons (The incredible feeling of flow while moving on rock, not some competitive aim to be the best). Although I succeeded in forgetting about the route for a while, my confidence and belief in myself had been shaken . Its really hard to continue progressing on your personal path with such unfinished business left behind.

Yesterday after warming up and trying a project Ive been working on sporadically (PerfectoMundo, in Margalef) I went with my friend Cristian La Miel to El Barranco sector of Margalef. Cristian sent his project , a beautiful 30meter 8a+ and then it was my turn to climb again. I was planning on trying a route put up last fall by Dani Andrada, Politicamente Corruptos 9a, but I had second thoughts. The conditions were really good and I figured, “why not go check in with first round and see how she was doing” . I had achieved my goal for the day making a highpoint on Perfectomundo so I felt really satisfied with the day already and it seemed like a good time to go back and refresh the moves on first Round and at the very least get some good training in. I hadn’t been on it in over two months and it was just like”what the heck, Ill give it a burn and see what happens.” Maybe I caught the route off guard but probably it was the other way around. I had no expectations and wen I arrived at the loathsome reappoint crux, I didn’t think, just climbed and a few moments later I had the finishing jug in my hand. After so many times falling , I felt like I was in a dream. Its definitely one of my hardest routes, but the mental mountain I had to climb was really makes it stand out for me.

Its a really valuable lessen for me, that no matter how difficult it can be to preserver in some moments, we just have to stay focused and remember that this fight is what makes it all so rewarding in the end.

~Chris Sharma, prAna Ambassador

*Ever wonder what Sharma’s inpiration was when naming First Round First Minute? Well here you go…


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Chris Sharma “Shaxi Raxi”- Oliana project (9a+)

March 11th, 2010

Chris trying a new project on Oliana in Catalunya. We can also see him chilling at his home with Daila Ojeda, Skateboarding and playing various instruments. Watch video

Shaxi Raxi

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Daila Ojeda: Good Weather = Motivation!

January 26th, 2010

The good weather has arrived and the same time the motivation is here too!

Today maybe it’s not the best time for to say that because it’s raining right now but the last week and the next few days the sun will shine and it’s for that we live here because you can climb with perfect weather on all the incredible walls for the majority of the year.

And for to get psyched we were going to one of our favorite place for climbing, Oliana. This place is wonderful and the lines are five stars of course! and now also Oliana has a new line of 50 meters bolted by Chris the last week… the name is Chaxiraxi and it can be one of the hardest route in the sector… 9b?? We will see that the machine says.. If it’s like this Chris has bolted four 9b routes in Catalunya: “Golpe de Estado” 9b in Siurana, “Neanderthal” 9b in Santa Linya, “First round First minute” 9b proyect in Margalef and “Chaxiraxi” 9b proyect in Oliana. And with this line Chris has bolted in Oliana 10 routes. Looks like Chris doesn’t want just to send the hard routes, he want to create it too. Good job peque!

And since my project “Digital System” in Santa Linya is wet I already have new hard projects in Oliana (like Fish eye in the Maria Torre´s photo).

And the last week we have had the visit like every winter of our fanatics friends from Germany Marcus Bock and Manu (our particular cookers hehe). They arrived motivated for climbing in Margalef but all routes were wet there and then they went to Oliana and Santa Linya with us and they could find some dry routes with 15 just meters or less :-)

And Congratulation for Iker Pou for his recently rotpunk “Demencia Senil” 9a+. Nice job dude!

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Chris Sharma ticks off Neanderthal 5.15b (9b) in Spain

December 20th, 2009

Cross Posted from Climbing Narcissist

As expected, Chris Sharma has done the first ascent of a possible 5.15b sport route in Spain, but it wasn’t the infamous First Round, First Minute project at Margalef which he is still reportedly very close to doing.  Instead Sharma ticked off the Neanderthal project in the cave at Santa Linya to yield his 3rd possible 5.15b after Jumbo Love and Golpe De Estado.

SharmaSeen in Dosage V, Neanderthal follows a long and sustained 40 meter line with a hard dyno near the top of the wall.  After two years of work, Sharma was able to climb “really solid and very psyched” to reach the anchors of Neanderthal with a cheering crowd looking on.

Interestingly enough, Neanderthal wasn’t Sharma’s main focus lately, but poor conditions in Margalef led to a change of plans.  Commenting on their blog, the guys at Big Up shed a little more light on things:

A quick heads-up: We got a last minute call from Sharma the other day, that he was about to send First Round First Minute, so Brett jumped on over to Spain to shoot it. Margalef got snowed out, so they went to Santa Linya instead, and today Chris did his other mega-proj, Neanderthal. Probably another 9b. There is footage of him trying it in Dosage 5.  Now they have a few more days to go back to FRFM and try to get it done too… We will be making the footage available as a download from our site as soon as possible. More info to come… -Josh

After a quiet middle part of the year, Sharma seems poised to finish 2009 strong with this 5.15 FA under his belt and another possibly on the way.  Stay tuned…

Chris’s girlfriend Daila Ojeda also chimed in on her blog

Neanderthal 9b for Chris in Santa Linya!!

Today it was a beautiful sunny day of winter in one of our favorite crag in Catalunya, Santa Linya. It’s was really cold too and that means perfect conditions for climbing! And some days before Chris fell in the last move in his project in Santa Linya and after one rest day he arrived to the anchor to the hardest route in the cave Neanderthal 9b. He climbed really solid and very psyched with everybody cheering down below venga bicho!! nice Chris! The good thing is Brett Lowell captured everything on tape and you be able to see some nice footage very soon on bigupproductions.com (good job guys!)

And it’s was crazy because he was waiting for his other project in Margalef to dry and he went to the cave just for fun and belay me… then he has to go to Margalef and finish his work with First round first minute 9b?? before 2010… that sound really good man!

We’ll see next few days!

UPDATE from Björn Pohl:

The lowdown on Neanderthal

I just had a chat with David Graham, who’s snowed in with Jon Cardwell in Cataluña. He said they were all kinda laughing at the Neanderthal reports because they’re all so off regarding the route. For example, a diagram of the route has been shown on one website. Just one minor detail: The route shown is La travesía de enmienda, ~8c+…
Neanderthal starts there, but goes more directly out the cave.
 
“The route is like a 9a (more or less) which is comprised of something like four 7C blocs on a row, very resitant, on pinches and kinda crack like features. There are some holds to shake on in between the last 7C and the crux which is this dyno. The dyno is a move from a crimp and a two finger pocket to a sloper brick. Then there is a jug after a couple more moves. The boulder must be 8A minimum. Then there is a small rest, a small boulder, maybe 3 moves, not so hard, then a big rest. Then it is a maybe 8a+/8b route to the end of the cave, out another little bulge. Thus the route is something like a 9a, to a 8A bloc, to a big rest, which makes solid 9a+ or easy 9b? Then about 8a+/8b route outro climb after a big rest in a break.
This is Neanderthal.”

Dave says he hasn’t tried it, but that he hopes to soon. The recap above was given to him by Tomas Mrazek and Chris. Chris also said it felt a lot better this year than last. Dave and Jon will stay and climb with Chris for two more months, so provided it stops snowing, ever, we can expect things happening down there!
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