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Congratulations to prAna ambassador Alizée Dufraisse who got hold of us yesterday to confirm her FFA of La Reina Mora! The route was her most difficult grade to date and places her in the company of only a handful of women. She already has her sights on another unbelievable route so stay tuned…

La REINA MORA : Combat fantastique !!!

La première fois que je suis montée dans cette voie (ouverte en 1996 par Alex Huber) la ligne évidente du secteur de la RAMBLA, je ne pensais pas être capable d’enchaîner une voie de cette difficulté et de cette exigence dans ma vie. Je n’arrivais pas à réaliser intrinsèquement une bonne partie des mouvements.

J’ai choisi la REINA MORA malgré la difficulté qu’elle représentait pour moi car elle m’inspirait.

Hier, j’ai dû livrer un combat exceptionnel pour en arriver à bout. C’est de loin la voie la dure et la plus belle que j’ai réalisé.

La voie est très résistante et très physique sans réel repos, le tout entrecoupé de 3 passages marqués très bloc (de 7B à 7C). Ce qui rend l’enchaînement très difficile.

La REINA MORA ne comptait jusqu’à présent que 3 réalisations (Ramon, Nicolas Favresse et Dani Andrada).

Ce dernier qui a enchaîné la voie le mois dernier donnait une cotation aux alentours de 9A, je suis d’accord avec lui, je pense qu’on est un ton au-dessus de l’autre 9A très exigeant du secteur ESTADO CRITICO. Avis aux prochains répétiteurs…

La Reina Mora: great fight!!!!

First time I’ve work this route (opened by Alex Huber in 1996), THE line of La Rambla sector in Siurana crag (Spain, Catalunia), I couldn’t imagine I ll send a such route in my life. It was so so so hard, men style but really beautiful!! I wasn t able to do a lot of moves on it. But I choose La Reina, she inspires me…

Yesterday I had an incredible fight and I send it. It is the most beautiful and hard route I’ve ever done.

It is both resistance, boulder and continuity with no rest, 3 boulder problems on it around 7C boulder. This mix was terrible but super cool.

La Reina Mora had just 3 sending (Ramon Julian Puiblanque, Dani Andrada and Nicolas Favresse).

Dani did the route one month ago and think the grade is 9a. I agree with that. I’m waiting the opinion of the next “senders”

~Alizée Dufraisse, prAna Ambassador

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Cross Posted From Daila Ojeda’s Blog

The last day Chris sent “Power inverter” 9a+ FA, one of his really hard projects bolted in the espectacular wall in Oliana. Also Dani Andrada sent at the same time “Duele la realidad” 9a bolted by himself too.. it was fun watching them cheer eachother on while they climbed.. it was motivating for everybody in the cliff.. thanks guys and good job!!

~Daila

More from Climbing Narc HERE and Dani Andrada HERE

Enzo spent some quality time  in Cuba along with another prAna Ambassador Nina Caprez as well as  Melissa Le Neve, Mike Fuselier, Sebastien Boussogne & Cédric Lachat. Not only was the group intent on bolting routes but they also opened a beautiful overhanging wall with 7 routes (7c to 8c) and a cliff with 3 routes (8a, 8b and a possible 9a).

During the 3 week stint, they not only enjoyed the local culture (cough cigars cough), chased wild pigs, took  mud baths (jk) and they put in more than 120 bolts. They were also fortunate enough to have Julien Nadiras filming for an upcoming release.

Our goal was to discover the beautiful landscape of the valley of Vinales and to bolt a couple of new routes. This big mission was definitely a  sucess and we opened a completely new roof-sector in the middle of the jungle and a couple of new lines in the main sectors near the village. ~Nina Caprez

Enzo’s dad also chimed in…

They learn how to smoke a cigar, prepare a mojito. They listened to Cuban music, eat fruit suculents, lobsters will and always rice and rice again. But also watch live people who work the land by hand as a century ago in France, who dare not talk politics and dreams of more freedom while venerating Fidel. They meet some Cuban climbers. They are motivated and very happy to come across foreign climbers. they now have several years of turnkey projects. ~Frederic Oddo

We look forward to seeing  a clean(…er) Enzo & the gang at the Buttermilks soon!

UPDATE: For more great images from the trip click HERE

Cross Posted From Daila Ojeda

Photo: Boone Speed

“The last week Chris did the first ascent of his last route bolted, ¨Era Bella¨9a in Margalef. Also he did the route when he was warming up! Yes, warming up is important!! hehe”

~Daila

*Era Bella was a First Ascent!

Chris trying a new project on Oliana in Catalunya. We can also see him chilling at his home with Daila Ojeda, Skateboarding and playing various instruments. Watch video

A WORKLESSCLIMBMORE production

9A OTHER IN STA. Linya (via Google Translate)

Once again the fate teamed with Chris Sharma had clear where he wanted to go and what I wanted but after a brief siege conversation neglect their personal priorities and reassign adding to the recording of a television program that deals in depth the current problems in the Cave Linya Sta.
Before granting its personal interview, Chris wanted to take the time and prove to the chambers because of the importance of this area and try your luck with “analog” a project until today. The U.S. transformed the cave into a bowl of shooting, in which all attendees were the extras and Chris the maximum impromptu star of a film, the camera far from imagining what was going to see, just understanding the importance of this wonderful industry and on because of our effort to continue climbing in Sta Linya, screaming and jumping like no, improvising signed the first global “analog” one ninth for that no doubt remains a preferred destination for the best climbers in the world.

Chris told me once … “often you would like to be in two places at once, but this is impossible so you have to enjoy wherever you are and forget what you are missing” and that is what he did yesterday.

9A OTHER IN STA. Linya (Original Article)

Una vez mas el destino se alió con Chris Sharma, tenia claro donde quería ir y lo que quería asediar pero tras una breve conversación abandono sus prioridades personales y cambio de destino sumándose a la grabación de un programa televisivo que trata en profundidad los problemas actuales en la Cueva de Sta. Linya.
Antes conceder su entrevista personal, Chris quiso aprovechar la jornada y demostrar ante las cámaras el porque de la importancia de esta zona y probo suerte con “Analogica” un proyecto hasta el día de hoy . El americano transformo la cueva en un plato de rodaje ,en el que todos los asistentes fuimos los figurantes y Chris el maximo protagonista de una película improvisada, el camara lejos de imaginar lo que iba a ver ,acabo entendiendo la importancia de este maravilloso sector y el porque de nuestro esfuerzo por seguir escalando en Sta. Linya, gritando saltando y como no, improvisando firmo la primera mundial a “Analogica” otro noveno para el que sin duda sigue siendo un destino preferente para los mejores escaladores del mundo.

Chris me dijo una vez… , “muchas veces te gustaria estar en dos sitios a la vez, pero esto es imposible asi que hay que disfrutar de donde estes y olvidarte de lo que te estas perdiendo” y esto es lo que hizo ayer.

The last week was the PETZL team meeting in Siurana! It was very fun climbing the really nice routes of Siurana and Margalef with people from everywhere… The next year this event should repeat! It was very interested…

Now we are so motivated and we are climbing a lot in our favorite caveSta linya! that is great! oh my god! Chris doesn’t loose his time and hi sent the proyect “Sistema Analogico” hard 9a, nice dude! Now that the house is almost finished and warm for the winter I am very focused on climbing and the last day I sent Deja vu 7c+ onsight! my first anchor after some months! nice.. I’m very happy and motivated a muerte! hehehe

For more on Daila Ojeda, check out her blog

Just got word from the gang at Momentum Video <LINK> that Chris just sent another 5.15a in Spain. He says it’s harder than his other 5.15a, but not sure if it should be 5.15b. Check out the entire post here <LINK>. Photos by Pete O’Donovan and copy from Momentum Video by Chris Sharma.

“Last Friday I finally sent my project in Oliana “Pachamama”. I was so stoked to squeeze it in before the summer heat. Pachamama is a blue wall just to the right of my other route Papichulo 9a+. Its 50m long and
very pumpy and psychological.

The first 2/3 of the route is super resistance maybe 9a+ by itself. It’s super sustained with most of the holds being small mini tufa pinches and slopey underclings . I really had to climb with a lot of rhythm. The individual moves aren’t that bad but I fell so many times with my hands opening up totally pumped. After there is an “ok” rest and maybe 8b+ or 8c to the top. Just before the finishing jug there is a slabby redpoint crux with slopey sidepulls far apart with really bad feet (two days before I fell there).

Anyways its such a perfect line. It a beautiful bulging wall with 3d water streaks (like small mini tufa ribs). Oliana is a magical place. It’s such a privilege to have it as one of my home crags and have the opportunity to put up such a perfect line.

I’m still a bit confused over the grade. Its definitely harder than Papichulo and all the other 9a+ routes I’ve done in Spain but I’m not sure if its 9b. Aside from the mandatory cabron jump to a sloper on the lower section, the resistant style of climbing on the route isn’t quite the best style for me and I can imagine other people being better suited. We’ll see what people think. For now I’d say its hard 9a+.”

-CS