Archive for the ‘Rock Climbing’ Category
Climbing and parenting: a balance between hanging on and letting go. Climbing seems simple enough: grip too hard and you’ll pump out early. If you don’t put enough effort into it, you’ll never make it to the end. I have spent over a decade fine-tuning that balance between holding on and letting go. Now with the birth of our first child Annie, I find the same lessons in parenthood: Suddenly I am two people, dependent on each other, but both with a lifetime of dreams and aspirations ahead of us. I have to hold on, but not too tight. Seems simple enough.
~Kate Reese McGinnis, prAna Ambassador
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Tony Yaniro was a serious game changer for the world of rock climbing. While others were satisfied with climbing five twelve he felt the need to go further. Establishing Grand Illusion as the first five thirteen, he planted a stepping stone for the masses.
Tony is well known for hi establishing all over California, but he also left his mark many other places, such as my home state Idaho. Tony moved to Ketchum Idaho in the late eighties. He linked up with Dave Bingham, and together they attacked the development of Idaho sport climbing.
Most of there time was spent at the mega spots such as City of Rocks, Massacre rocks, and many others! Establishing many five twelve’s and five thirteen’s. Turning these areas into great destinations for hard sport climbing! He also developed the surrounding area of my home town Sun Valley. There isn’t a ton around here, but what there is happens to be stellar. Much of this do to the psyche of Tony Yaniro.
Many people know about Tony chipping and “comfortising” holds. This used to really bug me, though it was known and ok for the times. I have come to terms that what was done back in the day was part of a learning process. That and the fact that what has been chipped isn’t going any where any time soon.
There is a local crag to Sun Valley called “Trail Creek”. The crags are short, but a lot of fun for being only about eight miles out of Sun Valley. Here Tony put up a few lines, two of which were shipped. I tackled the beautiful un chipped route called “Sacillian” 12C first, a stellar line on an exposed arête. Right next door is a 13a dubbed “Vigilante.” Great route though it yields a couple man made holds. To be honest you can barely even tell, apparently Tony was an artist when it came to chipping/comfortising.
Tony may have literally left his mark on some rock, but in the process he opened up a whole new world for sport climbing. He trained for routes, rehearsed them, whatever it took. He left his mark on the rock and in the history books.
~Beau Stuart, prAna Ambassador
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Congratulations to prAna ambassador Alizée Dufraisse who got hold of us yesterday to confirm her FFA of La Reina Mora! The route was her most difficult grade to date and places her in the company of only a handful of women. She already has her sights on another unbelievable route so stay tuned…
La REINA MORA : Combat fantastique !!!
La première fois que je suis montée dans cette voie (ouverte en 1996 par Alex Huber) la ligne évidente du secteur de la RAMBLA, je ne pensais pas être capable d’enchaîner une voie de cette difficulté et de cette exigence dans ma vie. Je n’arrivais pas à réaliser intrinsèquement une bonne partie des mouvements.
J’ai choisi la REINA MORA malgré la difficulté qu’elle représentait pour moi car elle m’inspirait.
Hier, j’ai dû livrer un combat exceptionnel pour en arriver à bout. C’est de loin la voie la dure et la plus belle que j’ai réalisé.
La voie est très résistante et très physique sans réel repos, le tout entrecoupé de 3 passages marqués très bloc (de 7B à 7C). Ce qui rend l’enchaînement très difficile.
La REINA MORA ne comptait jusqu’à présent que 3 réalisations (Ramon, Nicolas Favresse et Dani Andrada).
Ce dernier qui a enchaîné la voie le mois dernier donnait une cotation aux alentours de 9A, je suis d’accord avec lui, je pense qu’on est un ton au-dessus de l’autre 9A très exigeant du secteur ESTADO CRITICO. Avis aux prochains répétiteurs…
La Reina Mora: great fight!!!!
First time I’ve work this route (opened by Alex Huber in 1996), THE line of La Rambla sector in Siurana crag (Spain, Catalunia), I couldn’t imagine I ll send a such route in my life. It was so so so hard, men style but really beautiful!! I wasn t able to do a lot of moves on it. But I choose La Reina, she inspires me…
Yesterday I had an incredible fight and I send it. It is the most beautiful and hard route I’ve ever done.
It is both resistance, boulder and continuity with no rest, 3 boulder problems on it around 7C boulder. This mix was terrible but super cool.
La Reina Mora had just 3 sending (Ramon Julian Puiblanque, Dani Andrada and Nicolas Favresse).
Dani did the route one month ago and think the grade is 9a. I agree with that. I’m waiting the opinion of the next “senders” 
~Alizée Dufraisse, prAna Ambassador
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The Man Who Can Fly
National Geographic: Legendary rock climber and base jumper Dean Potter mounts an expedition to free climb the massive peaks of Canada’s Mt. Butte. Catch it Sunday February 12th at 8:00pm!
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