Tony Yaniro: Game Changer
Tony Yaniro was a serious game changer for the world of rock climbing. While others were satisfied with climbing five twelve he felt the need to go further. Establishing Grand Illusion as the first five thirteen, he planted a stepping stone for the masses.
Tony is well known for hi establishing all over California, but he also left his mark many other places, such as my home state Idaho. Tony moved to Ketchum Idaho in the late eighties. He linked up with Dave Bingham, and together they attacked the development of Idaho sport climbing.
Most of there time was spent at the mega spots such as City of Rocks, Massacre rocks, and many others! Establishing many five twelve’s and five thirteen’s. Turning these areas into great destinations for hard sport climbing! He also developed the surrounding area of my home town Sun Valley. There isn’t a ton around here, but what there is happens to be stellar. Much of this do to the psyche of Tony Yaniro.
Many people know about Tony chipping and “comfortising” holds. This used to really bug me, though it was known and ok for the times. I have come to terms that what was done back in the day was part of a learning process. That and the fact that what has been chipped isn’t going any where any time soon.
There is a local crag to Sun Valley called “Trail Creek”. The crags are short, but a lot of fun for being only about eight miles out of Sun Valley. Here Tony put up a few lines, two of which were shipped. I tackled the beautiful un chipped route called “Sacillian” 12C first, a stellar line on an exposed arête. Right next door is a 13a dubbed “Vigilante.” Great route though it yields a couple man made holds. To be honest you can barely even tell, apparently Tony was an artist when it came to chipping/comfortising.
Tony may have literally left his mark on some rock, but in the process he opened up a whole new world for sport climbing. He trained for routes, rehearsed them, whatever it took. He left his mark on the rock and in the history books.
~Beau Stuart, prAna Ambassador
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5 Responses So Far
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You misspell his name and call him a rock chipper! Nice one!
January 31st, 2012 at 11:28 amYou have a lot of grammatical errors in your article. For example “Most of there time was spent at the mega spots” should read “Most of their time…” and “Much of this do to the psyche of Tony Yaniro.” should read “Much of this due to…”
January 31st, 2012 at 11:54 amIm aware im a lousy writer. Im a climber not a writer. And Ive never chipped anything!
February 2nd, 2012 at 10:47 amWorking on it
February 2nd, 2012 at 11:16 amBeau,
February 2nd, 2012 at 3:29 pmNice work on the article. Most readers are sharp enough to realize your intention was not to produce a lesson on English grammar. As another Idaho native, I enjoyed your discussion of Yaniro’s important contributions to our state.
Thanks,
Jaren