prAna: Sustainable Clothing

Just got word from the gang at Momentum Video <LINK> that Chris just sent another 5.15a in Spain. He says it’s harder than his other 5.15a, but not sure if it should be 5.15b. Check out the entire post here <LINK>. Photos by Pete O’Donovan and copy from Momentum Video by Chris Sharma.

“Last Friday I finally sent my project in Oliana “Pachamama”. I was so stoked to squeeze it in before the summer heat. Pachamama is a blue wall just to the right of my other route Papichulo 9a+. Its 50m long and
very pumpy and psychological.

The first 2/3 of the route is super resistance maybe 9a+ by itself. It’s super sustained with most of the holds being small mini tufa pinches and slopey underclings . I really had to climb with a lot of rhythm. The individual moves aren’t that bad but I fell so many times with my hands opening up totally pumped. After there is an “ok” rest and maybe 8b+ or 8c to the top. Just before the finishing jug there is a slabby redpoint crux with slopey sidepulls far apart with really bad feet (two days before I fell there).

Anyways its such a perfect line. It a beautiful bulging wall with 3d water streaks (like small mini tufa ribs). Oliana is a magical place. It’s such a privilege to have it as one of my home crags and have the opportunity to put up such a perfect line.

I’m still a bit confused over the grade. Its definitely harder than Papichulo and all the other 9a+ routes I’ve done in Spain but I’m not sure if its 9b. Aside from the mandatory cabron jump to a sloper on the lower section, the resistant style of climbing on the route isn’t quite the best style for me and I can imagine other people being better suited. We’ll see what people think. For now I’d say its hard 9a+.”

-CS